It’s rare you feel complete awe from watching a video, where you get a true sense of something so viscerally. This stunning photography achieved that. I’ve not seen anything that captures this break in this way, and for the first time I think, I got a sense of who you have to be to drop into a wave like that.
You’re out there experimenting and playing with an edge, in direct communion with the awesome power of Mother Nature, and you need to be a unique person to be willing to go that close, in pursuit of something so elegantly beautiful and poetic.
It’s almost like a calling, bringing these souls from around the world, and I’m not even sure if bravery is a dominant factor, it’s more like an act of devotion, to the craft, the moment, to the ocean, as if they almost have no choice in the matter. They answer the call, and I think for them, it’s impossible to ignore.
It has to go beyond emotion, or logic because no one in their right mind would commit to a situation where you’re in the maw of this phenomenal fundamental force and dancing beneath a mountain of water crashing around you. What an incredible manifestation of the human spirit.
Drone pilot Tucker Wooding captured all the action. Enjoy.
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