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 "Fear is a necessary emotion. Being fearless is reckless - you don’t know where the line is. I think fear is misinterpreted as being a negative emotion, when in fact it’s just a warning system that heightens your strength; your eyesight; hearing... everything that puts you into survival mode is triggered by fear." Kai Lenny shares insights and epiphanies from the big wave arena. Photo: @pedrogomesphotography

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BORN PACIFIC | Pete Devries

         

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