Wave of the Day: Matahi Drollett, Teahupoo, May 10th

Tahitian local sticks late drop and gets spit out of keg at the End of the Road

“Although Tahiti scored a decent size south swell back in February, the last couple of months have been unusually small,” explained longtime Tahiti-based photographer Tim McKenna. “The last week of April and first week of May have constantly been the prime window for big clean conditions at the end of the road these last years — and finally, this week the locals managed to dust off their Teahupoo guns with a clean run of eight to 10-foot-plus surf, with perfect glassy conditions.”

McKenna continued: “The usual suspects: Tikanui Smith, Matehau Tetopa, Kevin Bourez and Eimeo Czermak and Gilbert Teave traded waves all morning, and around 10am, a wind and rain squall degraded the lineup for nearly an hour before things settled down.
At 11am, Matahi Drollet scored the bomb of the day with a perfect deep paddle into a massive wall, freefalling a few feet and barely holding on at the bottom of the wave. He got barreled off his head and the crowd went wild as he reached the channel. He couldn’t ask for a better start to the season.”


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