Leilani Collection

thumbnail

Josh Kerr and the seemingly endless delights of the twinnie.

Interview by Jason Lock (SURFLINE)

Josh Kerr’s had a fascinating surfing life. From the 17-year-old star of the ‘90s-inspired US Airshow Series, to the seasoned and successful world tour pro, he’s always carried an easy confidence that seems to have survived his current incarnation: the stoked surfing Dad. There’s always a smile on Kerrzy’s face, a kind of acknowledgement of a fortunate life perhaps. And he’s still ripping. Here our European correspondent Jason Lock quizzes Josh on his reborn affection for the twinnie — which he seems to share with about a million of us right now.

Have you always been a proponent of twin fins?

I wouldn’t say I’ve always been a full twin fin guy, but definitely the past few years. Prior to that I was always interested in alternative crafts, had some great times on twinnies. But then single fins, quads, two plus ones, even finless boards, I got into that for a while. The freedom twins have given me, you know not having to jump on a thruster every day, has been another level and pretty addicting. Always been into any sort of board design, any shape and size.

 

Kerrzy’s always a fan of the layback. Photo: Matt Kleiner

When did you realise there was more fun to have ditching a centre fin?

To be honest, to just get to ride twinnies in good waves and trusting them – and Matt (Album) has made me some amazing boards – they’re second to none for drive and speed and once you have adjusted your surfing towards that style of timing – there’s no better feeling, it is so pure.

Just twins you’ve found give that feeling, what about quads?

Yeah for sure, I’ve got a few models I prefer as straight quads. But the past year or two, it has been strictly twin. I do like quads, there’s a load more resistance on your toe side and heel side a little bit more fin in the water that can create more drag. That’s good for pushing things in a tight pocket but you lose that little bit of freedom out on the open face.

How would you sell the benefits of a twin to the thruster only crew?

So. Much. Freedom. So much speed through the turn, you’re not held back.

And surfing on tour for so long, do you think that moulds you into surfing a certain way?

I don’t think it moulds you to surf in a certain way. But it definitely keeps your mind frame to surfing in a certain style, that you feel like you need to emulate. It might not be the most creative way though.

Surely the big revelation of modern twin-fin design: Twins are good in barrels! Photo: Matt Kleiner

So, it’s safe to say then that the twin fin love has been born out of you being a little more unshackled?

Yeah, absolutely. The freedom of not being on tour and I’m frothing to surf – and I have a young frothing daughter and getting to travel to some amazing locations with amazing waves. The thought of doing that with the boards I’ve ridden the past 20 years on tour just isn’t…very motivating [laughs]. Needing to match that new found freedom without having to surf for a judge or on a certain style of equipment – is imperative for me, for sure.

So why aren’t they on tour?

I would never go back to a thruster on tour, let’s put it that way [laughs]. I have a really good connection with Matt the shaper, his fin placement is next level and he’s got a load of things dialled in.

A thruster has a load of control in the pocket and you can get away with making a few mistakes. The twin, if you have impurities in your surfing, it shows. There’s no hiding it. Riding a thruster is much easier.

Walk us through your relationship with Album too, what about them screamed out to you?

I got off Rusty surfboards in 2016, did another year on tour in 2017, was going through a lot of surfboards. And Album just did this crazy quiver of new boards, and I wanted that inspiration from new boards and shapes. Back then, if anyone hits me up asking ‘hey can I shape you a board’, I’m just like, ‘yeah shape me something you think you can see me riding on tour, then also try something super creative and fun’. And most of the guys would shape me a 5’8”, my regular shortie and then a 5’7.5” that’s kind of the same but a bit lighter or something [laughs], not much inspiration on those boards. But then Album comes along and just gave me this five board quiver that were all crazy looking, all different and it was so inspiring to surf and have fun. They were beautiful looking and as good as they looked, they surfed well too. Rode them for a bit then got a couple more boards off him and never got a bad board off him.

They made me want to go surfing. Fast forward a few years and they’re still doing that for me.

They hold speed too. Photo: Matt Kleiner

 

Are you a forecast guy, do you travel specifically for swells?

I kind of wish I had the freedom to do that a bit more now. But it’s pretty selfish with a family. We will hunt some local forecasts though. We travel as a family so it’s hard to breakdown the family unit at the sight of a swell. Yeah, used to be a big forecast guy, and hunt swells and everything like that. And there’s a few venues I would do that for if I was around in that part of the world at that time. I don’t think I’d jump on a plane to travel to the other side of the world to catch a three day swell to travel back… those kind of days are behind me. But I’ll definitely try to take advantage of the moments and where I’m going. I try to now place myself at good locations around the world so I can be in those places and have the best opportunities at scoring.

Having your family close by, I’m guessing the Kerrs are fully dialled in to agile travelling…

[laughs] Absolutely, we’re fully dialled in. Lucky enough to have a family unit that’s happy to jump on board and want to go on adventures and live the life that’s been my dream and they love it as much as I do.

Gotta ask, how’s COVID impacted any plans?

We’ve done a pretty good job of navigating our way around and through it. When it all kicked in we were in Australia at the time and decided to stay there a lot longer. Luckily enough, we had an amazing season, beautiful waves. And then when we moved back to California, you know, where we’ve lived the past 10 or 11 years, it was such a culture shock with everything going on. But you know we were still able to travel. So I’ve been lucky enough to keep doing that – like Mexico, Texas, Hawaii and this amazing stint in Indo. It’s definitely impacted the attitude to travelling though and you have to get a bit more creative with the way to get around – luckily we’re all young and healthy and happy and taking the right precautions as we do.



Subscribe by Email

Follow Updates Articles from This Blog via Email

No Comments

Store

         

 Limited Edition | Buy now before it's too late!