Video Of The Week

SURFING IRELANDS COLD GIANT WAVE

This Is Us | Women surfing made in North Devon


Video from King of Kooks Surf Media

5.30 am in a car park at Croyde. It’s a hazy Friday morning, quiet as the dawn rises, yet there is a hum, a primal buzz beginning to seep through the light. 
Solo, in pairs and groups, a tribe is forming. There is joy and laughter, banter, and sharing. This is rare, the women of North Devon joining together to share waves and the sunrise. 

We are under-represented you see, busy lives and family’s. Individually daunted by the thought of being one of only a handful of women, if not the only woman in the lineup. Worrying about being judged, be it surfing ability or the way we look. We are often our own worst enemy, all worrying about similar things, unsure and feeling alone.  

Collectively, however, we are strong. A force in the waves supporting and sharing, with a mutual passion, all seeking something different, yet somewhat similar, as raw and simple as the ocean flow. 


This is Us, showing up and being there for each other, every one of us in our own way.

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