Video Of The Week

The Perfect Chapter | Von Froth Ep 8

Photos of the day


"We had two flights and a boat ride to get to the island where we stayed," says Kalani Ball (left) about his trek to the Solomon Islands with Harry Bryant (right). "On this particular day we took a boat out to the break and we could see bombs from super far away. We got to the channel and just started freaking out about how good it was. When this wave came through I didn't even realize that I stood up in the boat. My jaw was on the floor; we were so baffled that we were about to surf those waves by ourselves." Photo: Shield


"This was the biggest, best wave I got in Mexico," says Koa Smith, "There was a huge left coming at me at the end of it, so I had to straighten out and jump off. I got so worked by that one, and then there was another right behind it, and another behind that. I was just getting rag-dolled over and over. I felt so helpless, like the life was getting squeezed out of me. Just when I thought I was about to black out, I popped up and there were no more waves coming. I couldn't believe it. I was home free." Photo: Kenworthy


For true surf addicts, the ultimate goal is getting as many great waves to yourself as possible, and to do that, it pays to keep their locations close to your chest. "This was one of the best sessions I've ever had," says John Florence, pictured here in our Big Issue. "But I'm not going to say where it is, or even drop any hints. Even if you knew where this wave was, it wouldn't do you much good because it's so fickle. But on this day, on this particular swell, my best friends and I scored it absolutely alone. We were just trading huge barrels for six hours. We're still talking about it. I think it just goes to show you that, even when you think you know of every conceivable spot in one area, there's always something else out there. You just gotta keep looking." Photo: Russo

No comments