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How one break in Portugal creates the world's largest waves

Big Wave Tour Nazaré Challenge 2018 | Photo: Nando Jorge Photos



Nazaré is well known for good reason. It regularly produces the largest rideable waves on planet Earth. And thanks to the ultimate deepwater canyon set up, Nazaré’s surf size potential is only bound by the size and direction of the swell it receives.

For Nazaré, there is a steep contrast between the large and deep canyon running offshore and the much shallower ridge that lines the northern slope. This canyon/ridge relationship extends a long distance far offshore all the way up to the break.

The portion of the swell running through the deep canyon maintains a greater percentage of its raw open ocean energy and forward speed closer to shore. And upon interacting with the adjacent ridge, much of this energy will refract out of the canyon and focus back in toward the break.

Read the full article here: MECHANICS OF NAZARE by Surfline

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