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Surfing Sunrise to Sunset at Dream Right Hander in Indonesia

"CLEAR FOR TAKE OFF" Koa Smith.

The Smith Brothers surf a perfect Indonesian Right-hander in the Mentawai Islands. Koa, Alex, Travis and friends surf from sunrise to sunset on this paradise surf boat trip adventure, a true marathon super session. #mentawai​ #surf​ #adventure​

Surfers: Koa Smith, Alex Smith, Travis Smith, Bibi Rodriguez, Jordy Collins and Brad Ettinger.

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The Last Sunbeams Of Flow

 Deus Ex Machina - Shop Online Today

Matt Cuddihy

His friends call him Cuddles, something about how it makes him blush when you do. It's funny though, everyone that Matt Cuddihy meets seems to become a friend, he's just so damn likable.

As a surfer, well, rather than blow smoke up his bum, we thought we would show ya.

Love to know what you think.

Surfer: Matt Cuddihy

DOP & Camera Operator: Andre Cricket & David John Schaap

Music by: Jordy Maxwell - Yellow Dress

Walt Adams - Perpetual Transit

Deus Ex Machina - Shop Online Today


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The inspiring story of Betty Winstedt, the Hawaii resident who became a champion surfer in her 40s














Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt photographed surfing at Waikiki in 1956. She charted a new path, for herself and for other female surfers, as a champion athlete.

Courtesy of Vicky Durand

Living by the ocean can be transformative. For Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt, who first learned to surf when she moved from the mainland U.S. to Waikiki in the 1950s at the age of 41, riding the legendary aquamarine waves became her passion. But surfing would become more than a hobby; Winstedt was a pioneer and champion in a sport that saw few women take to the waves.

Winstedt's story is captured in "Wave Woman: The Life and Struggles of a Surfing Pioneer" (Sparkpress) from one who knew her well: her daughter, Vicky Heldreich Durand.

Published last year, the previously untold story shines a spotlight on Winstedt and shows her incredible zest for life. Based on Oahu, Durand, an award-winning surfer herself, has devoted the past few years to writing Winstedt's unique personal story. "Wave Woman" takes readers back in time to the early days of modern surfing and immerses them into Oahu’s vibrant and fun surf community over a half-century ago.

Vicky Durand in her home on Feb. 24, 2021.

Vicky Durand in her home on Feb. 24, 2021.

Sean Marrs/Special to SFGATE

A multifaceted individual, Winstedt was considered a “go-getter” by her friends and family and had already accomplished a great deal before she arrived in Hawaii. Known for her limitless drive, spontaneity and perseverance, she had succeeded in learning to fly an airplane, was an athletic swimmer (and had trained for the 1938 Olympics), eloped after a brief courtship and had two children before settling on Oahu.

"Wave Woman" features colorful descriptions of Winstedt's relocation from the mainland to Hawaii as a young mother and chronicles how she embarked upon a new life while falling in love with surfing. As one of a few women who surfed on Oahu during that era, Winstedt attracted a great deal of attention as she learned to surf larger waves at Makaha (situated on the west coast of Oahu), and became more proficient in the sport. With natural athleticism, Winstedt participated in tournaments, won prizes and traveled for surfing competitions in Peru. Winstedt also surfed with some legendary greats, including Duke Kahanamoku, Buffalo Keaulana, Peter Cole and Jim Arness (a family friend known for his longtime role on the TV series "Gunsmoke").

Duke Kahanamoku, center, posing with the first Hawaiian surfing team that competed in an international surfing competition in Lima, Peru. At the competition, Betty Winstedt, standing next to Kahanamoku, took first place in the women's division.

Duke Kahanamoku, center, posing with the first Hawaiian surfing team that competed in an international surfing competition in Lima, Peru. At the competition, Betty Winstedt, standing next to Kahanamoku, took first place in the women's division.

Courtesy of Vicky Durand

Eventually, circumstances shifted for Winstedt, although she remained self-sufficient: She divorced, remarried and embarked on a new career path in dentistry while continuing to nurture her art, which included writing haiku poems, sculpting and making pottery. Surrounded by her hobbies, friends, and family, she created a full, happy life on the island for herself and her two daughters.

Over the years, the author recalls that her mother continually encouraged her to keep careful notes of their surfing adventures, as she correctly predicted that surfing would become an incredibly popular sport that crosses all demographics.

Betty Winstedt at the Waikiki Surf Club with friends in 1956.

Betty Winstedt at the Waikiki Surf Club with friends in 1956.

Courtesy of Vicky Durand

In 2015, four years after Winstedt passed away at the age of 98, Durand decided to write a book about her mother’s achievements, as she felt Winstedt’s story of bold resilience was important to share. Although as a teenager she was not as diligent with her note-taking (as her mother had suggested years ago), Durand was committed to recreating Winstedt’s adventures on the page, she said.

“I wanted to write something about her amazing life as an inspiration for women and for men to show what’s possible when you are willing to pursue a dream," she said. "It’s never too late to get out of your comfort zone and work for what you want.”

Betty Winstedt at Kuhio Beach with her Joe Quigg board, 1955. She began her career as a surfer at 41.

Betty Winstedt at Kuhio Beach with her Joe Quigg board, 1955. She began her career as a surfer at 41. "It’s never too late to get out of your comfort zone and work for what you want,” said her daughter Vicky Heldreich Durand.

Courtesy of Vicky Durand

Durand spent a great deal of time researching the details of the book and interviewed a number of relatives and friends who helped her recreate a vivid and accurate picture of the era and fill in some crucial pieces about her mother’s life. She also worked with three editors during the process. Still, Durand was convinced that there were questions about her mother’s life that were destined to go unanswered.

She explained, “Even though we were confidants and best friends, there were still so many questions I never asked my mother and there were quite a few family mysteries that were too late to uncover.”

However, serendipity played a role while Durand was researching the book. As luck would have it, as she was searching for old family photos in the garage of her family beach home in Makaha, Hawaii, she discovered a box tucked away on a shelf. This hidden box turned out to be filled with exactly what she needed — letters, photos and other precious items that once belonged to her mother, including Winstedt’s journal.

These papers and documents proved to be valuable for Durand to accurately shape the story and fill in some missing information. Several of her mother’s poems in the box are also featured in the book.

All this enabled her to share the story of her mother’s extraordinary life and her deep love of surfing. “At the time I found the box, I was grasping and kicking myself for not asking more questions when my mother was alive. … When I found that box, I realized I discovered a treasure trove of information that was going to help me finish the book and be able to give a more accurate, substantial description of her philosophy and her general outlook on life. I felt very blessed to have found that.”

An accomplished surfer herself, Vicky Durand was inspired by her mother's life and resilience in the face of many challenges.

An accomplished surfer herself, Vicky Durand was inspired by her mother's life and resilience in the face of many challenges.

Sean Marrs/Special to SFGATE

Durand says that as she continued to write the book, she often wondered, along the way, if she was on the right path. “But during this process,” she said, “I found that if I needed someone, they would appear. … So the story really unfolded, and the universe was with me all the way.”

Durand wasn’t expecting that her book would lead to some good surprises, including reconnecting with old friends, and being interviewed on-camera for a forthcoming surfing documentary. In addition, as this article is being written, Durand, who recently turned 80 and has two adult daughters of her own, is optimistic that she will soon be working with a production company to create a film version of the book, which is something she hadn’t imagined when she set out to write her mother’s story.

Durand explained, “During this project, I’ve learned a lot about myself, interestingly enough, and the similarities between me and my mother … and especially what has motivated me through my life.”

She added that she hopes the book shares Winstedt’s enduring enthusiasm and reveals lessons for everyone who reads it. She says, “I like to think about my mother’s belief that it’s okay to make mistakes in life — you just need to get yourself out of them and move on. She was a lifelong learner with a thirst for knowledge and she was always ready to try something new.”

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Mason & Michael Ho At Pipeline & Backdoor

Mason & Michael Ho At Pipeline & Backdoor


Mason Ho calls his father Michael Ho (age63) to go surf Pipeline & Backdoor only to learn dad is already out there dealing with the pack.

Filming: Rory Pringle + Tomo McPherson + Satoshi San Drone. 

Surfers: Mason Ho, Michael Ho, Keone Cheeseburger Nozaki, Kala Grace and many more. 

Jams: black magic woman. 

All surfers and surfboards info in end credit roll plus ding report.

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Aequatio | The Sound of Change

Aequatio 


Equation comes from the Latin form Aequatio. Similarly to an expression with multiple and independent variables, Aequatio explores the mathematics of the ocean and the exponential function of surfing as a form of art.

The man from Portugal has delivered another dose of longboard poetry with filmmaker Daniel Espírito Santo. Set to the warm and angelic tones of K. Wolf and his guitar, Aequatio is five minutes of stylish surfing set at a dream-like pace and captured in ways that only compliment the individualistic nature of Eurico Romaguera. Ensure the headphones are on, your surroundings quiet and press play on his latest work.

Video by Daniel Espírito Santo
Music by K.Wolf

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A Ride of a Lifetime - Featuring Eddie Hudson

A Ride of a Lifetime - Featuring Eddie Hudson

One of the best things about big wave surfing (let’s add life threatening slab surfing) is you don’t need to be Mark Mathews, Jughead or Ryan Hipwood to be seen catching the wave of your life like in this Cape Solander slab wave. You just need the balls, a whole lot of desire and good ski driver to tow you into something that’s un-paddlable. Some surfers maybe can surf this place for years and pray to get a wave this good but Sydney beach lifeguard Eddie Hudson in his first visit scores this beautiful beast towed by junior Solander/Kurnell local Kipp Caddy. Definitely one for the history books. 
Special Thanks goes to Evan Faulks for his assistance.

Please subscribe & give us the Thumbs UP if you like our edit.

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Daniel Fuller, Pro Surfer and Photographer, Sees the Ocean Differently

Daniel Fuller

 “We’re surrounded by endless forms of energy visible and invisible to the naked eye,” says pro surfer and artist Daniel Fuller from his studio in Venice Beach. Through his photography, he hopes to make some of that invisible energy visible — or at least emotionally felt.

For the last 10 years, Fuller has been photographing the ocean. It’s an environment with which he is intimately familiar: he’s been surfing for over three decades, and has been a big wave specialist for over 16 years. Now 39, Fuller has spent more time than most interacting with and observing the water, whether from within a wave or from the shore at night with his camera.

“I’ve had — I wouldn’t say two separate lives — as a professional surfer and as an artist. For me, they go hand in hand. A reoccurring theme for me is this dance that I do with the ocean as a surfer; the essence of that life force that I want to bring to the viewer through my practice as an artist,” says Fuller, who was born and raised in Hawaii. (He’s also had a third career, as a model; he was the face of Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême.) “You’re doing this dance with nature where time almost stands still.”

Fuller, typically on the go, has spent the majority of the past year in Los Angeles. “Luckily we have the Pacific here,” he says. “But when you add a few kids to the equation, it adds a few more layers to your COVID-19 experience.” (His children are four and seven years old.)

This week, Fuller has released a collection of his seascape photography, “Liquid Horizon: Meditations on the Surf and Sea,” with Rizzoli. The book, which Fuller began working on in 2019, includes 132 photographs taken over the past decade. The photographs were captured at night, using film and long exposures. Working alone, he captures the photos between midnight and 5 a.m., using the moon as his only light source.


“This nocturnal landscape is illuminated by the full moon, and I allow the natural elements — primarily the waves — to do this painterly performance, with the objective of bringing the essence of this infinite life force to the viewer,” says Fuller. “I have some control, but a lot of it is really up to nature and its endless spaces and textures and tones that it reveals.”

The process renders his subject — the ocean — as an abstract composition reminiscent of color field paintings. In many of the photographs, the subject is unrecognizable, distilled down to color and geometric forms. The distinction between land, water and horizon is blurred; the viewer is left with an emotional documentation rather than literal depiction.

“If you look at that space of where the sky meets the sea, it’s this infinite space of wonder and possibility,” he says. “A serene, meditative, tranquil state that we can find ourselves with.”

The book includes a forward by artist Julian Schnabel. The painter has encouraged Fuller’s artistic practice since their chance meeting over 16 years ago, when Schnabel was on the north shore of Oahu with Herbie Fletcher. “He’s been a dear friend and somebody who’s really pushed and encouraged me to, like, further my practice and understanding of creative arts,” says Fuller of Schnabel.

The book also features an essay by Adam Lindemann and afterword from surf legend Gerry Lopez. “Danny has captured still life to create a kind of wave for us to ride with our feelings and imaginations in order to find whatever and wherever those senses take us,” Lopez writes. “Look at the pictures long enough and you’ll find they can become a mirror into some deep places within ourselves.”

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This Is How You Boost Big Airs Under The Moonlight | Red Bull Night Riders 2020

Photo: Red Bull


Red Bull Night Riders has become one of the top annual surf contests on the East Coast, drawing highly accomplished pros every year to compete. It’s been held in North Florida for a decade, becoming an annual tradition and without a doubt the biggest surf event in the area.

The newly released short film, produced in partnership with Stab Magazine, documents the action at the event and also takes a closer look at the Jacksonville surf scene itself.

Surfers taking part in Red Bull Night Riders included former winners and local brothers Cody and Evan Thompson, last year’s winner Balaram Stack, Eric Geiselman, Robbie McCormick, and the legendary Cory Lopez.

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Localism at the Manhattan Beach pier triggers racial reckoning for surfers

Gage Crismond and Justin “Brick” Howze at the Manhattan Beach pier during Sunday’s Peace Paddle. Photo by Kevin Cody

 On President’s Day morning, a middle-aged, white surfer hassled two 24-year-old Black surfers in the line-up at the Manhattan Beach Pier. He told them to go surf in El Porto. Then, more pointedly, he told them to go surf Bruce’s Beach, a Blacks only beach in the 1920s and more recently, the site of Black Lives Matter protests.

He used the epithets nigger and donkey, though kook would have been more cutting because the two Black surfers are new to surfing. He paddled up close enough to one of the Black surfers to splash him in the face.

The incident might have been dismissed as just another “stain on the soul of surfing,” as localism is described in a 2000 essay by Surfrider Foundation co-founder Glenn Hening. Except that morning, Rashidi Kafelle visited his chiropractor, Robert Bates, whose Highland Avenue office is two blocks up from the pier, where, afterwards, Kafelle decided to stretch his legs.

Justin “Brick” Howze being confronted by an unidentified surfer at the Manhattan Beach Pier on President’s Day. Photo by Rashidi Kafelle

In recalling the morning, Kafelle said, “I saw two Black dudes surfing, which is unusual, so I started taking photos with my cell phone. Then I heard the word nigger.” Kafelle is Black. 

His photos didn’t have audio, but the tension in the water is evident from the splashing. 

After the two Black surfers paddled in, Kafelle caught up with them in the parking lot and offered to send them the photos.

The Black surfers were Justin Howze and Gage Crismond. They are founders of BlackSandSurf, an arts collective focused on design and social media. Howze is also a DJ who goes by the name Brick. He has 75,000 Instagram followers.

Peace Paddle organizers Gage Crismond and Justin “Brick” Howze.

That evening, Brick and Crismond posted Kafelle’s photos on Instagram, along with a 38 minute selfie video, during which they describe the incident. The video had 68,871 views by the following day.

In the video, Brick and Crismond recall what began as a not uncommon confrontation between local and non-local surfers, even though Brick and Crismond surf at the pier almost daily.

It began with a teenage local burning Brick on a wave. Their boards collide and the local’s board breaks. When Brick is paddling back out, he gets in the way of another teenage surfer, who yells at him to “get out of the f…ing way.” Then a third teenage surfer yells at him, “This is a locals’ beach.” 

Brick told him, “I know you guys are good and I’m new. But my parents weren’t rich, so I didn’t grow up next to the beach.”

Brick and Crismond said they were taken aback by the verbal abuse because they had been on good terms with the three teenagers during the eight months they had been surfing at the pier.

Then the middle-aged white surfer paddled over.

“He tells us, ‘You two go to El Porto,’” Brick recalls on the Instagram video.

After the white surfer calls him nigger, Brick fired back, “If you want to talk to me like this, paddle in my nigger.”

Among surfers, an invitation to paddle in is generally understood as an invitation to fight.

Mateo Canu, 13, proves he belongs in the lineup during Sunday’s Peace Paddle at the Manhattan Beach pier. Photos by Kevin Cody

The white surfer responded, Brick says on the video, “Oh, you’re calling me nigger now.”

“I couldn’t give him the liberty of showing…Someone saying nigger to me, I’m totally unaffected by that. The moment he realized the word was completely powerless, he said, ‘You donkey, go down to El Porto.”

“The easy answer was to punch him in the mouth. But I knew the headline in the papers would have been, ‘Young Black surfer punches old white surfer.’

“Instead, I looked him dead in the eye, and said, ‘I’ll be back tomorrow. You’re not running me out.’”

Crismond said after the older surfer called them nigger and donkey a few dozen times, he called them faggots.

“Who uses that word anymore?” Crismond wonders aloud on the video. 

Poster designed by Brick to promote last Sunday’s gathering at the Manhattan Beach pier.

The teenage surfer who yelled at Brick for getting in his way later paddled over to him and said, “Bro, my bad. I didn’t mean that.” 

The other two teenage surfers also apologized that morning, Brick and Crismond acknowledge on the video.

When they paddled in, an older Manhattan Beach resident, who had witnessed the confrontation from the pier, stopped them to apologize on behalf of his town. “We don’t tolerate that behavior in Manhattan Beach. I’ve never seen anything like it, before,” he said. The man then called to a lifeguard.

The lifeguard told Brick and Crismond, “We’ll keep an eye out, and tell the guy he’s not welcome back.”

Peace Paddle surfers gather following Sunday’s surf session at the Manhattan Beach pier. Photo by Rashidi Kafele

Over the following few days, Brick and Crismond used social media to promote a “Peace paddleout” at the pier Sunday morning.

Approximately 100 surfers, mostly Black, showed up.

Brick at the Manhattan Beach pier during Sunday’s Peace Paddle. Photo by Rashidi Kafelle

Among them was Ry Harris, a surfboard shaper and founder of EarthTech surfboards. Last year, following a paddleout in memory of George Floyd, Harris co-founded the environmental and social justice non-profit 1 Planet One People.

“The day after Brick and Crismond were threatened, my phone started burning up,” Harris told the crowd. “And I’m thinking, Why are people calling me? This isn’t a Black surfers’ problem. It’s every surfer’s problem.

Harris strove for an encouraging tone. “Surfers and the surf industry have been good to me. I’ve surfed in the South Bay for 20 years and no one has ever called me nigger in the water, though maybe that’s just because I’m a big, loud Black man. 

“But what happened to these two young surfers at a spot I call home, and the fact that no one had their backs is an embarrassment. If you see something, say something,” Harris said.

Master SCUBA diver Shanie Tennyson thanks Brick for motivating her to return to diving.

On the beach, after the protest, Shanie Tennyson, a Master SCUBA diver, who is Black, thanked Brick for inspiring her to return to SCUBA diving. 

“I love teaching diving. But I backed away from it after someone told me I don’t belong. Because of today, I’m going back,” she said.

“This isn’t just about surfing,” Brick told her. “It’s about any predominantly white space where Black people are made to feel they don’t belong. The way Gage and I were talked to in the water wouldn’t be tolerated in a Walmart. It shouldn’t be tolerated in the water.” ER

 

 Reckoning at the Manhattan Beach pier

Black surfers Justin “Brick” Howze and Gage Crismond recount their President’s Day clash with several white surfers at the Manhattan Beach pier, which led them to organize a Peace Paddle at the pier last Sunday. The video was posted on Brick’s Instagram page.

 


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