First proper swell hit Desert Point and it absolutely lived up to its expectations.
2days of firing 6ft lines, barrels from start to Finish. I was worried I was going to spend the swell in hospital since i got Attacked by a rare insect that got me really bad. My Eye started swelling like crazy, my face was covered in a weird rash. I honestly thought I couldnt make the swell. I later found out that i got bit by a tomCat, a rare insect that has as much poison as a Cobra.
Look out for those guys, the can get you bad.

The Von Froth details the bite (looks...nasty) and his time at Deserts above.


Olympics Surfing Tokyo eyes typhoon forecast

Olympics-Surfing-Tokyo eyes typhoon forecast, but surfers say bring it on.

TOKYO (Reuters) – Japanese residents may be worried about the prospect of a typhoon forming off the coast next week, but the surfers taking part in the Olympic Games are welcoming the possibility of some big waves with open arms.

The Tokyo Olympics are being held during typhoon season and the weather is a major talking point, with heat and humidity expected to be a major factor in many sports.

But it’s the wind and waves that are of most importance for surfing, which makes its Olympics debut next week.

Surfline, which is providing forecasts for the 2020 Games, predicts rising tropical cyclone surf starting on Sunday and continuing through next week, with a prolonged run of medium-sized waves during the eight-day competition window.

“There’s going to be good waves, there’s a strong typhoon here off the coast of Japan and we know that the waves are getting bigger,” International Surfing Association president Fernando Aguerre told Reuters in a telephone interview.

Reports of a possible typhoon off the coast were greeted with glee by some competitors.

“It’s small but there is swell on the way! Let’s go,” wrote Australian surfer Owen Wright on Instagram following his first practice session at Tsurigasaki Surf Beach, where competition begins on Sunday.

Surfers had been worried Tsurigasaki’s often tiny, weak waves would make difficult to show their skills to a huge new audience.

“The waves have been a little bit small thus far, but there’s a really good swell on the way, looking like some great winds for maybe Monday, so that should give us a good platform to showcase for the world what it’s all about,” New Zealand coach Matt Scorringe told a media conference.

The weather forecast has led to a change of plans for Billy Stairmand, one of Scorringe’s athletes in the competition.

“Originally I thought it was going to be pretty small, so I brought all my small-waves boards which are shorter, flatter and little big fatter on the rails,” Stairmand told reporters.

“Now, seeing the forecasts with the swell coming in, I brought over a few step-ups, bigger, longer boards with different tails that can do good for big conditions.”

No matter how rough the weather gets, New Zealander Ella Williams said competitors would take it as it comes.

“We’re prepared for that, we’ve been preparing for a while. It brought us here and we’ll be fine,” she said.


Giant Waves At Uluwatu - Surfing Bali, 2021

Thumbnail is at 6:08. A very solid West swell brought all of Bali's big-wave chargers out of the woodwork, and down to Uluwatu for a memorable afternoon session. 

Most of the action was at Outside Corner, and as the tide dropped out a decent amount of surfers headed out there to try their luck. Everyone put on a good show, and we were treated to some amazing rides, epic wipeouts, and broken boards galore.

This video features land & drone footage. Enjoy!


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Inside the youthful surf scene of Tarkwa Bay, Lagos

Inside the youthful surf scene of Tarkwa Bay, Lagos No Wahala

Photographer Oli Hillyer-Riley shoots the surf kids of the city’s island communities – a collective who share an incredible bond with the ocean.

In the spring of 2019, Oli Hillyer-Riley arrived in Lagos, there on a commission to photograph pro surfers Dylan Graves and Dane Gudauskas as part of Vans’ Weird Waves series. 

After touching down, he made his way from the airport and into the city, before hopping in a boat that took him out of the harbour and back around into Tarkwa Bay: a sheltered beach that forms part of the city’s artificial island communities. 

It was here, during a quiet moment between shoots, that Hillyer-Riley discovered the bay’s surf community for the first time: a youthful scene, made up of kids who’ve spent their whole lives by the ocean. 

“I was surrounded by children smiling from ear to ear,” he says, recalling the afternoon he was introduced to the Tarkwa Bay surfers. “They shared a handful of surfboards and took it in turns on the waves…. it was like these kids were discovering it for the first time.”

Taken by the relationship they shared with the water, Hillyer-Riley began photographing the young surfers alongside working on his assignment. When Graves and Gudauskas were taking a break, he would make his way down to spend time with the Tarkwa Bay club, capturing them in the ocean whenever he could.  

“Dylan Graves described the surf community there as, ‘Going back in time to the infant state of surfing,’” Hillyer-Riley adds. “He’s hit the nail on the head. We’re talking nothing but pure joy and excitement, that rush when you catch your first wave – but on tap.” 

“The vibe in the water was special, it was the camaraderie. They were hooting and cheering each other, while the young members of the community would clap and dance on the beach when someone caught a wave.” 

 Hillyer-Riley spent six days with the Tarkwa Bay surfers, before heading back home to the UK when his assignment was complete. With the photos he shot, he planned to put together a book, with profits going to John Mitchelli, an Italian-born surfer who heads up the Tarkwa Bay club, ensuring that the kids stay on decent equipment and know how to look after each other in the water. 

However, on Tuesday 21 January, 2020, Tarkwa’s beachside community found themselves forcibly evicted by the Nigerian Navy as part of an operation to stop oil theft from pipelines. The mass eviction left thousands of innocent families across the island communities homeless.

“Right now our main priority is taking care of the kids and their families,” says Micheletti. “We’re using any funds that the club had saved to provide food aid and assist with rebuilding homes, or relocating affected families where this is not possible.”

As a result, the profits from Hillyer-Riley’s book – titled No Wahala – will now go back into helping the Tarkwa Bay community in “any way possible”. His main hope, after that, is that the kids will be able to enjoy themselves out on the water again.

“The passion they have for the ocean is something to admire,” he says. “It reminds me of speaking to Manu, one of the club’s oldest members. He said: ‘I think about the surf and ocean all day every day. In school, at home, until I fall asleep and then again the next day – until I am back in the sea.’” 

 No Wahala is available to buy now

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The surf brand fighting for the future of the ocean

The surf brand fighting for the future of the ocean In partnership with Finisterre

With ocean health declining rapidly, Finisterre is calling on world leaders to usher in a decade of global action and bringing activists together to inspire meaningful change.

Up on the cliffs in St Agnes sits an old tin mine. Its chimney stands tall against the otherwise stark coastline that dips and swerves its way along the Atlantic Ocean. The workshops around the chimney house the surf brand, Finisterre

The brand, which has become an international name, isn’t just concerned with making clothes. Sustainability and a desire to promote healthy oceans is embedded in their ethos. It’s that desire that drove founder Tom Kay to create and launch Sea7 – the first online ocean activist training camp. During the second wave of the pandemic, when the country was forced into lockdown, Tom and his team set about organising a day of workshops, talks and discussions to be broadcast from the company’s base in St Agnes to participants across the world. 

The event took place on a windy, overcast Thursday in June as world leaders began to gather in Cornwall for the G7 summit, taking place just down the coast in St Ives. The summit set out to form a cohesive plan between some of the world’s biggest economies and powers for building back from the Coronavirus pandemic and to tackle the growing climate crisis as we barrel towards the IPCC’s 2030 deadline. Finisterre issued seven demands for the G7, centred around stopping damage to the ocean, protecting, managing and restoring the ocean and calling on world leaders to usher in a decade of global ocean action. 

Ocean health has been declining rapidly over previous decades. In 2004, scientists counted 146 hypoxic zones (areas of such low oxygen concentration that animal life suffocates and dies) in the world’s oceans. By 2008, that number had jumped to 405. In 2017, in the Gulf of Mexico, oceanographers detected a deadzone nearly the size of New Jersey – the largest ever measured. Atop the ocean, giant patches of rubbish float, the largest being the great Pacific garbage patch which measures twice the size of Texas. Half the air we breathe comes from the ocean, so the shocking rates of pollution threaten our very existence on this planet.

Surfers have long been at the forefront of the fight to save our oceans. No more so than organisation Surfers Against Sewage (SAS), who were brought in by Tom and the team to help curate Sea7.

Against Sewage has been doing ocean activism for thirty years, across a range of issues, so we were delighted to bring our experience to the table to help our friends at Finisterre,” said Hugo Tagholm, chief executive of SAS, speaking at the event. “My team here at SAS has been driving incredible impact and change, so it’s always good to share the stories of how activism happens. We proudly empower over 100,000 ocean activists annually, and reach millions with our campaigns, which has led to some big wins for the ocean. Sitting alongside other organisations to discuss and reflect on the ways to create change is always an inspiring exercise.”

Richard Lily, also known as RJ, is the CEO of Project Seagrass. He says, “Today we’re seeing journalists, we’re seeing science communicators, we’re seeing scientists, social scientists, we’re seeing activists, we’re seeing a suite of different people, who are all coming together and having an opportunity to coalesce around this space and Finisterre are providing a platform for that.”

For RJ, Seagrass is one of the key ways in fighting emissions and devastating climate change. “One of the real benefits of restoring seagrass meadows around our coasts is it’s going to catch that carbon, draw it down and bury it in the sediments and it does that at quite a rate as well. And then there’s so many other benefits, too. That’s one of the reasons why we’ve been trying to put seagrass front and centre for the G7. In fact, we’ve actually just created a small film, specifically for the G7.”

Nick Hounsfield, chair of Surf England and founder of The Wave surf centre in Bristol, was also on the north coast of Cornwall for the event. He tells Huck: “I was asked to come along because I’m heavily involved in trying to connect people to what we call ‘blue health’, which is the way that people can be hugely benefited from being next to water, in water, by waves, and really trying to create that connection between the water and also human health.”

For Nick, the opportunity that Sea7 presents is huge, enabling activists to reach a whole new network of people. And he’s determined to spread his message even further: “What we also need to make sure is that we’re not just talking to the same people all of the time. I think a lot of that will come down to trying to engage with people who maybe aren’t ocean-minded. So how can we infiltrate inner city school kids for example, and make them have a connection, and want to protect it.”

The event, which saw thousands sign up to watch hours of workshops, debates and specially commissioned films lives online, free to access for all. The hope, says Tom Kay, is that the resources created for and by the event will enable activists and “anyone on any part of their journey” to take action for the planet. 

As the G7 came and went from Cornwall, eyes moved up the country to Glasgow. In the centre of the Scottish city stands a clock, ticking down the minutes to 2030 – the deadline for when the world needs to lower carbon emissions to avoid devastating rises in global temperature. It’s due to be in place for the next 5 months in the run-up to COP26, the international climate summit which will be held in the city. 

For many who attended Sea7, COP26 is the focus for the next few months, with activists hoping to pressure global leaders into making meaningful change. With instances of extreme weather on the rise and the sea literally burning, the conversations, skills and toolkits crafted at the training camp will be invaluable in preventing disaster.

To get involved and learn how you can help protect the oceans, the Sea7 toolkit and all sessions are available for free online here.

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NIAS - RAWFILES - 14-15/JUL/2021

In mid-July, the biggest swell of the season hit Indonesia. All over Bali, the surf was epic. But it wasn’t just Bali — up near North Sumatra in Lagundri Bay, Nias – the ocean dropped some absolute bombs. The wind wasn’t exactly right, which made things a little tricky, but for two straight days, Nias did what everyone loves it to do: it pumped.


Photo Of The Day

 "Fear is a necessary emotion. Being fearless is reckless - you don’t know where the line is. I think fear is misinterpreted as being a negative emotion, when in fact it’s just a warning system that heightens your strength; your eyesight; hearing... everything that puts you into survival mode is triggered by fear." Kai Lenny shares insights and epiphanies from the big wave arena. Photo: @pedrogomesphotography

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